StephenFine
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Jul 23, 2008, 1:51 PM
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Visiting Summer Camps in Mongolia - Land of the Horse
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By Dr. Stephen Fine
A helpful official approaches the two lone westerners in line at the MIAT ticketing counter in Seoul’s Incheonirport. “Do you know this flight to Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia?” she asks. “Yes,” we reply. “Alright,” she says, “Just want be sure you are in the correct line.”
We felt a little like the new kids going to camp. Mongolia is a former Soviet bloc country situated in central Asia and we were off to the International Children’s Centre (ICC) “Nairamdal.” Upon arriving at Ghinggis Khaan International Airport our feelings were not unlike that of first time campers. Everything was exciting but unfamiliar and a bit strange. It was after dark when we arrived and there were few street lights. The road to Nairamdal was rough and large shadowy shapes kept looming into view outside the windows of our vehicle and then vanishing.
However, once we arrived at Nairamdal camp all apprehension vanished like the shadowy shapes (actually herds of roadside horses) which had captured our imaginations during the drive to camp. Our hosts were Tulshig Tuvshin, Nairamdal’s General Director and their foreign relations officer, Byamba Chultem. They made us feel like family who had returned home. ICC Nairamdal is a splendid facility located on 5000 acres within the woodlands of the Khentil Mountain Chain. My first impression under a starry sky was the profound stillness of this spectacular mountain setting. The next day we toured the centre which includes a charming summer village, extracurricular school, winter residences, stadium, theatre, and outdoor activity facilities. Later that night we became members of the camp community in an atmosphere of singing and dancing lead by ICC Nairamdal’s friendly and enthusiastic young staff.
Traditionally a nomadic society, Mongolia represents without question a culture of camping. Even today one does not have to travel far from the widely scattered cities and towns to see that many Mongolians still live the “camping” lifestyle. The setting is a fenceless landscape of high-country grasslands populated by herds of horses, cattle, yaks, camels, sheep and goats. Scattered across this vast canvas are the “ger” camps of herding families. Gers are yurt-like dwellings made from a light framework of wood covered by wool matting. Often, the only indication of the 21st century is that gers may now boast solar-voltaic panels and satellite dishes. We were invited to meet several families who live in their gers year-round. This camping culture is what is so unique about this country and why it intrigues me as a researcher and camp professional.
Amidst this background are the organized children’s camps of the Mongolian Camping Association. We had the opportunity to stay in a ger at the Domogt Melkhi Khad (Turtle Rock) tourist camp as the guests of the owner Damdinsuren who is also the general director of Narlag Children’s Camp which is nestled in the valley immediately below. Looking down from Turtle Rock you can view Narlag Camp surrounded by towering cliffs in the heart of the breathtakingly beautiful Gorkhi-Terelj National Park. Here we rode horses up the valley, while eagles soared overhead, to visit a 19th century Buddhist temple perched high on the mountain side.
Additionally, we visited Nairamdlyn Erdenes Children’s Camp in Orkon province 440 km. north of Ulaanbaatar. The camp is a series of large rustic lodges in the pine forests above the Selenge River. The highlight of our visit was the traditional Mongolian feast of goat stuffed with lamb and cooked with hot rocks. This was served with pomp and ceremony in the camp’s large and beautifully appointed dining room. Nairamdlyn operates year round and offers sports activities as well as river rafting and horseback riding trips.
It is always interesting to go someplace completely different. What we found most rewarding about this journey is that we returned home with many heartfelt friendships and a willfulness to return again to this distant land. This is the magic of camp that we all recognize in the eyes of our long time campers and camper families. It’s a good feeling to have and nice to know that it can still happen to a couple of inveterate camp directors as well.
Originally published in Horse Sport, April 2008
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Dr. Stephen Fine is co-owner and co-director of The Hollows Camp and Chair of Educational Research of the Ontario Camping Association
(This post was edited by StephenFine on Jul 23, 2008, 2:06 PM)
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